Photo: Contiki
Jambo (hello) and welcome to the Green City of the Sun – Kenya’s capital, Nairobi! Hakuna Matata is not just a cute song from The Lion King. It’s a Swahili saying, meaning ‘there are no worries,’ and that’s precisely the kind of vibe you get here.
On a whim, I booked a cheap flight with Kenya Airways to South Africa, which included a 12-hour layover in Nairobi – which I wasn’t about to put to waste! But, when time is short, you’ve got to make every moment count and prepare accordingly. Once you’ve managed to make your way out of the airport and onto the city streets, then these are some of the best things to do in Nairobi, whether you have 12 or 24 hours.
1. Visit Nairobi’s National Park
Lions, and tigers, and bears, Oh my! Okay, maybe not tigers and bears. But you’ll undoubtedly find lions, giraffes, rhinos, springbuck, warthogs, and many, many more amazing members of African wildlife. The Nairobi National Park was a highlight for me. I suggest you book before reaching the gate . If you are short on time and trying to decide what to do in Nairobi, then this is a total must-do.
The National Park is not far from the airport and is situated right in the city’s boundaries. You can even see the Central Business District’s (CBD) highrises while photographing dancing ostriches and grazing rhinos.
Take a morning game drive
The early tourist catches the photogenic worm. As the day heats up, the animals begin to find shady hideouts. The roads are pretty rough, and I suggest hiring a guide to drive you around the extensive park. If you hire a vehicle, pick one that can be trusted to take those dips and washed-out bits (such as a 4×4). But always follow the Wildlife Code and remember to stay in your vehicle. Baboons might look cute, but they’re still wild and unpredictable creatures with very long fangs.
Go on a safari walk
Another option is to walk through a section of the National Park along a raised wooden boardwalk. This is a great option for those without a suitable vehicle. It’s safer than walking through the bush (not recommended), and you still get to see the wildlife in its natural African habitat.
2. Watch bottle-fed orphaned elephants at Nairobi’s Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
If you’ve already paid for entry into the National Park, then you should go watch the orphaned elephants being bottle-fed and playing in the mud at the Sheldrick National Trust. Book online before arriving because this is a popular ethical wildlife destination. Your $20 helps the trust rescue and raise orphaned elephants before rehabilitating and releasing them into the wild. While watching these playful babies feed and frolic, someone explains the process of rehabilitating the orphans.
Image source:Janine Magnin
3. Discover the ‘Cradle of Human Kind’ fossil display at Nairobi’s National Museum
Oh boy! I wish I had had more time to explore the National Museum ($10/£8). I only just managed to see the History of Kenya and the Cradle of Human Kind displays, but there is so much more to explore. If you’re interested in history and human evolution and are wondering what to do in Nairobi, then this one will tick all your geekish homo sapien boxes. You can pay online at the desk, but it would be best to book beforehand. Once booked and paid (online), you take your reference number to a woman at a small table, and she prints off your ticket.
Visit Nairobi Snake Park and Aquarium
The snake park is an additional cost at the National Museum and is a popular tourist attraction. Here, they save and protect threatened reptiles, such as venomous and non-venomous snakes, crocodiles, tortoises, turtles, and lizards.
4. Enjoy nyama choma
Nyama choma (‘barbecued meat’) is a Kenyan speciality and could be considered a national dish. It consists of grilled marinated meat (I recommend the goat) served with polenta (ugali). You eat with your hands after first cleaning them on warm towels.
5. Sip some ketepa tea…
Ketepa is the leading tea blend in Kenya. Don’t expect your tea to be served in a pot with milk on the side. No – instead, the leaves are deliciously stewed with the milk and served in pots, milky and flavoursome. I don’t usually take sugar with my tea, but I think a teaspoon really brought out its unique local flavour.
6. …Or some Tusker beer, ‘the beer for night life bars in Nairobi’
Tusker beer is considered a household name in Nairobi. This Kenyan beer is for you if you’re looking for something local and sustainably focused.
7. Shop around a few Maasai markets
There are a few Maasai markets in Nairobi, and one is right next to the Giraffe Centre. You can’t miss it – you’ll see the sign and Maasai standing out front to greet you. However, a word of warning – you need to have your haggle-game on. I was given a basket, told to pick what I liked (it was a vast store), and then instructed to tell the proprietor how much I thought it was all worth. He said he would counter my offer, and we would go from there. It can be fun and challenging, or an intimidating exercise for the faint of heart.
8. Gawk at the incredible views of Nairobi from the Times Tower skyscraper in Nairobi Central Business District (CBD)
The New Central Bank building is a famous tourist destination. It stands 140 metres (459 feet) tall and offers an unparalleled, uninterrupted panoramic view of Nairobi’s city centre.
Suggested intinerary: What to do on a layover in Nairobi, Kenya
Leaving the airport:
First things first, you need to get out. This can take some time, so budget for a delay of 1-2 hours before exiting the airport. First, ensure your visa (free) is printed and ready for when you finally get to the security booth. Applying for your visa is pretty straightforward and there’s an office right at the gates to help with any problems. You’ll also have to queue to take your bags through ‘Nothing to Declare.’ And don’t forget to say Asante (thank you) on the way out.
On leaving the airport
Hire a driver, take a taxi, or rent a car and visit Nairobi’s National Park (book beforehand). Driving in Nairobi is not for the faint of heart. I hired a driver for the day and was very glad I did. If you take a taxi, then you might like to do the walking safari.
Visit the Elephant Orphanage
If you’ve already paid for National Park entry, stay and watch the elephants get bottle-fed and frolic in the mud. It’s honestly worth it. This takes about an hour.
Have lunch at Bongani Gardens
Here, I had the most delicious goat nyama choma, ugali, and milky tea. If you have time, then visit the neighbouring Maasai market afterwards.
Visit the National Museum
The National Museum is in the city centre, which is quickly accessible via the Expressway (a tolled road). I didn’t have time to include the snake park, so I focused my remaining time on the History of Kenya and Cradle of Human Kind displays.
Take the Expressway straight to the airport
Getting through security and to my gate was much easier than getting out of the airport.
Image source:Janine Magnin
Explore Kenya and the Maasai Mara
Organised tours eliminate all the research and planning, making exploring new cities easy. They also organise your accommodation and many of your meals and help you focus on the highlights of a city when time is of the essence. Contiki’s Kenyan Highlights trip takes you from Nairobi to the Maasai Mara National Reserve and Amboseli. It includes game drives through the Nairobi National Park, a visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, and a balloon safari.
Another option is the 6-day Kenyan Highlights Reunion 35 to 45 for Contiki alumni and the 11-day East Africa Safari, which takes you to two countries and includes visiting the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater.
