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I had always heard that train journeys in Sri Lanka are something else. People spoke about them with a kind of nostalgia, as if the journey itself mattered more than the destination.
During my solo trip to Sri Lanka, I knew I had to experience it for myself. Not just because it was famous, but because I wanted to know what it really felt like.
Exploring one of Sri Lanka’s scenic train journeys
Most travellers talk about the iconic seven to eight-hour train ride from Kandy to Ella. But instead of committing to such a long journey, I chose a shorter route. And it still turned out to be one of the most beautiful travel decisions I have ever made.
The train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella is pure magic. It gives you everything you could hope for. Incredible views, a relaxed pace, and enough time to truly be present in the moment.
The train slowly makes its way through Sri Lanka’s southern hill country, gliding past endless tea plantations, cutting through misty mountains, and slipping in and out of dark tunnels before emerging into rolling green valleys.
At times, it feels like the train is floating through the clouds, as you watch the landscapes change. Slow and dreamy like something straight out of a movie.
Boarding the train at Nanu Oya
Image source:Photo by Ravishka Bhashitha/Pexels
I took the train from Nanu Oya Railway Station, about eight kilometres from Nuwara Eliya town. As I stepped onto the train, I felt that familiar travel excitement bubbling inside me. The kind that tells you this moment is going to stay with you. And it did not take long to realise that this was not just a scenic ride for tourists.
This train was a part of everyday life for locals, who climbed aboard with ease. Families chatted softly. Children laughed as they looked out of the window. Vendors moved through the compartments selling spicy snacks, calling out cheerfully. People outside waved as the train passed through their towns, as if they were greeting an old friend.
I had a window seat, but I barely sat there. I found myself drawn to the open doors instead. Well, I had to, because of all the photos that I had seen on the ‘gram!
Standing there, feeling the cool mountain air rush past my face, I was happy to know I was finally ticking off an experience from my bucket list. I met fellow travellers who were doing the same, all of us chasing that perfect photo, all of us silently agreeing that this moment was too beautiful to rush.
The train takes nearly four hours to reach Ella. By car, the journey would barely take an hour and a half. But the slowness is exactly what makes the train special. It climbs mountains, curves gently around hills, and gives you time to notice things.
Sri Lanka train tickets, timings, and a little bit of planning
Train travel in Sri Lanka is incredibly affordable, especially for those who are travelling on a tight budget. Yet, I chose to travel in first class, which came with air conditioning, reclining seats, space for luggage, and large windows that framed the views beautifully. My ticket cost around 2000 LKR (approx 7 USD).
Second class tickets cost about 1000 LKR (approx 3.5 USD), while third class tickets are around 600 LKR (approx 2 USD). You can buy third class tickets directly at the station, but if you want a reserved seat in first or second class, you need to book in advance.
There are several trains running daily from Nanu Oya to Ella. The main trains with first class reserved seating usually depart at 09:30 AM, 12:45 PM, 03:00 PM, and 03:55 PM.
If I have to share one important tip with you, it’s that the trains often run late! Another important detail is to make sure you are on an express train. Express trains take around four hours, while slower trains stop at every station and take much longer.
When mine was delayed by nearly half an hour, no one seemed bothered. Even the locals smiled and shrugged, as if to say this is just how it works. And somehow, that added to the charm.
Things I wish I knew before the journey
Image source:Photo by Atlanic Ambience /Pexels
One of the first things I learned was that the side of the train you sit on actually matters. As you travel towards Ella, most of the iconic views, tea plantations, waterfalls, and valleys appear on the left side. I was seated on the right and eventually realised I had a much better view standing by the left-side doors.
The doors themselves are always crowded. Everyone wants to sit there, legs dangling out, feeling the wind, and soaking in the views. When I arrived, a couple was already there. They smiled, made space for me, and even offered to take my photos. By the time we crossed Haputale, there were seven of us sharing that tiny space, laughing and holding on as the train curved through the hills.
Despite what many guides say, you do not need to reach the station extremely early if you have reserved tickets. Delays are common. However, if you are planning to buy third class tickets on the same day, it is best to arrive about an hour in advance.
One thing that confused me at first was second class tickets. Second class reserved tickets must be booked in advance. If you buy second class tickets at the station on the day of travel, they are unreserved, which means you may not get a seat at all.
I had also read about the legendary Seat No. 61, supposedly offering the best views. From my experience, this is a myth. The journey is beautiful no matter where you sit. And honestly, you will probably spend most of your time by the doors anyway.
And finally, a small but important tip. Carry snacks if you are not a fan of spicy food. Everything sold on the train, from mangoes to samosas, packs quite a punch. I mostly survived on biscuits that I had carried.
Why the Sri Lanka train journey will forever stay with me
I knew even before boarding the train that Sri Lankan train journeys were not to be missed. Still, I was not prepared for how deeply this one would stay with me.
More than the scenery, it was the feeling that made this journey unforgettable. The sense of slowing down. Of sharing space and smiles with strangers. Of watching the world unfold gently outside an open door.
The train ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella was one of the best train journeys I’ve ever experienced, and it’s one that still lingers in my mind.
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