A guide to walking the Camino

They say you don’t always get the Camino you want, but you do get the Camino you need. I’ve walked three, and I would be inclined to agree. Each of my Camino journeys through Spain, Portugal, and France has been unique and profound, and I’m already planning my next one! 

One of the things I like most about walking the Camino is that it doesn’t require much planning, and you honestly don’t need to carry as much as most pilgrims seem to think they should. I usually have some idea of where I need to be by the end of each day, but you can adjust your miles to your needs and the weather. There are usually plenty of places to eat and drink coffee, and the apps tell you exactly where to find albergues and hotels. 

That being said, let’s get into this short guide to walking the Camino!

What is the Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago is a network of pilgrimage routes that technically begins when you leave your front door and leads to Santiago de Compostela (in Spain) and the shrine of Saint James. Although there are many established routes (all marked with yellow arrows and mile markers), each pilgrimage is a unique experience, and one pilgrim’s story of walking the Camino will never be the same as the next.

Many pilgrims are inspired to walk the Camino after reading about it or watching the movie The Way, starring Martin Sheen. Additionally, you may have read Paulo Coelho’s Pilgrimage, Shirley MacLaine’s The Camino: A Journey of the Spirit, or Hape Kerkeling’s I’m Off Then: Losing and Finding Myself on the Camino de Santiago (German or English).

You can receive your Compostela (Pilgrim’s Certificate) after walking at least 100km. Some people are short on time and begin at these 100km points along the different routes. 

The history of the Camino de Santiago

In the 9th century, the remains of St James the Apostle were found in Northern Spain and entombed in Santiago de Compostela’s cathedral. Pilgrims have made this sacred, spiritual, or personal journey to visit his shrine for a thousand years. It was so popular that kings and clergy made the way more accessible by building bridges, hospitals, and shelters. The Knights Templars (think medieval Crusades) protected the pilgrims and kept the routes safe. You can still explore the castles that they left behind, and the most famous is the Castillo de Ponferrada (French Way). 

This makes the walk along the Camino both a spiritual and historical one.

What can I see during my walk on the Camino?

You’ll meet many people from many walks of life and countries. Each route is special and unique, characterised by its towns, cities, rolling countryside, and vistas. 

UNESCO Heritage Sites

UNESCO recognises the Camino as a route of cultural and natural importance which needs to be preserved for future generations. Along the way, you’ll also find many UNESCO heritage sites. 

1. Santiago de Compostela (Old Town)

Once you pass through Santiago’s urban sprawl, you’ll cross a road and enter the Old Town’s ancient lanes. You’ll know when you’re almost at the Cathedral because ancient walls, elated pilgrims, and people offering you Tarta de Santiago will begin to surround you. The Old Town is distinctive and charming, and the mood joyous. When the buildings suddenly end, you’ll enter the Plaza do Obradoiro (the main cathedral square) and see Santiago’s incredible cathedral. 

2. Burgos Cathedral

Located along the Camino Frances, the 13th-century Our Lady of Burgos has been a UNESCO Heritage Site since 1984. Its architecture is a prime example of the Gothic style.  

3. Léon Cathedral

León Cathedral was constructed between 1747 and the early 20th century, and its style is considered rather eclectic. León Cathedral also lies along the Camino Frances. 

How many routes does the Camino have?

There are actually several official Camino routes. Most people assume it begins in St Jean Pied de Port, but I’ve met numerous pilgrims who created their own pilgrimage routes from their home cathedrals across Europe. The official routes have arrows and mile markers to help guide you to Santiago.

Camino Frances (the French Way)

The French Way, or Camino Frances, is the most popular route to Santiago de Compostela. Statistically, most pilgrims begin their journey from Sarria, so it gets very crowded from then on.

Starting point: St Jean Pied de Port, France (800km)

Final 100 km starting point: Sarria, Spain

How long does the Camino Frances take?

If you begin walking the Camino from St. Jean de Port, you will need 30-35 days to complete the Camino  Frances. It will take about 7 days to walk from Sarria.

Camino Portugues (the Portuguese Way) – Coastal and Central routes

Some people begin in Lisbon, which has fewer pilgrims. You’ll meet more on the road from Porto and a lot more from Tui. The Coastal-Central routes begin from Porto and are two of the easier Caminos. I personally preferred the Coastal Way. It mostly hugs the coast, where you walk along miles of boardwalks and stop at coastal coffee shops. I also enjoyed the Central Route, but there is much more road walking. This is the recommended route if the weather is stormy. Several options are available to connect the coastal route with the central route. 

Starting Point: Lisbon, Portugal (620km) or Porto, Portugal (265km Coastal/ 240km Central)

Final 100km starting point: Tui, Spain 

How long does walking the Camino Portugues take?

To walk the Camino Portugues from Lisbon, you will need around 25 days. Walking the Coastal Route from Porto will take about 12-14 days, and if you take the central route from Porto, it will take around 10-11 days. It takes around 5-7 days to walk from Tui.

Via de la Plata (the Silver Route)

The Via de la Plata is the longest Camino route. It follows an ancient Roman road through Spain and was originally an ancient trade and pilgrimage route. 

Starting Point: Sevilla, Spain (1000km)

Final 100km starting point: Ourense, Spain

How long does walking the Via de la Plata take?

The Via de la Plata takes 40-50 days to walk and around 8 days to walk from Ourense.

When is the best time of year to walk the Camino?

Spring and summer are the most popular seasons to walk the Camino, with summer being the busiest. But be warned: It is also the hottest. Spring is much more moderate, but it can also be rainy.

How safe is the Camino?

Very. The National Police and Guardia Civil protect the pilgrims along the route, and Spain is considered one of the safest countries in the world. I constantly had to get off the trails and tracks to make way for the Spanish Guardia vehicles, and I’ve never felt unsafe on any of my Caminos. The pilgrims also tend to look after each other. I have been helped many times and have tried to pay that forward where I can.

What types of accommodation are available in Camino?

There is no shortage of accommodation choices along the Camino – especially along the French Way. From albergues (hostels) often run by a host of international Hospitaleros (Camino volunteers) to luxury hotels, the choice is yours, depending on your budget and needs. You can also choose to mix it up and decide on your accommodation on a day-to-day basis. 

Albergue

Many pilgrims stay in albergues because they are affordable, convenient, and a site for pilgrim socialisation, shared meals, and exciting conversations. Many of the albergues operate on a first-come-first-serve basis, which allows you to have a more flexible itinerary and choose your stops each night. But you do need to bring a sleeping bag.

Hotels

Booking a hotel room while on the road is easily done. Conveniently, you can use your phone to book en route for those nights when you want to be alone in a room with an en suite. 

Camino luggage transfers

I opted for this service when the temperature got too hot, and I didn’t want to burden myself with anything more than food and water. For a small fee, you leave your labelled bag and money in a designated area of the albergue or hotel, and the service takes it to the next stop you’ve written on the label.

My top tips for walking the Camino

• Carry a guidebook and/or use a guide app, have an itinerary, and have plans for your overnight stops. You don’t have to stick to your plan unless you’ve booked your accommodation.
• Have a WhatsApp group chat and ‘pin-drop’ your location to friends and family to let them know where you are each day.
• Create a network of friends along the way.
• Don’t carry too much! Honestly, less is more. I recommend using a 40-litre (50 at most) backpack. Pilgrim boxes can help you shed weight as you continue from town to town. I sometimes needed those boxes to shed weight and add to my bag (I shredded both pairs of socks on my last wet Camino).
• Bring layers for hot and freezing weather. The mountains are cold, but the days can be boiling. 
• Bring a sleeping bag and silk liner for the albergues. I never trust the blankets they give you. 

Explore Spain, Portugal, and France

Why not tag on a Contiki trip before or after your pilgrimage adventure? Organised tours eliminate all the research and planning, making exploring new cities easy. They also organise your accommodation and many of your meals and help you focus on the highlights of a city when time is of the essence. Spain and Portugal Highlights trip is a round trip from Madrid through Libon and includes a visit to the Great Mosque of Córdoba and a Traditional Madrilenos Dinner in Madrid. 

Another option is the 9-day Portugal City and Surf and the 4-day Food and Wine in a French Chateau, which is a perfect foodie adventure for the start or conclusion of your Pilgrimage adventure.