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We’re all pretty attracted to bright, shiny things right? So what better way to unleash our inner magpie and spend a few early December evenings than heading to the city of Lyon to see the Fête des lumières (or Festival of Lights).
Wander around and drink in all the art installations and light shows which are projected onto the beautiful old buildings dotted around the city centre. And the best thing? It’s free.
This year, it takes place between Friday 5th and Monday 8th December, so get planning to ensure you get your fix of the prettiest lights you may ever see.
What is La Fête des Lumières?
Well, the festival’s roots go far, far back. We’re talking 17th century far back. In 1643, a plague hit the city and councillors stated that they’d pay tribute to the Virgin Mary if Lyon was saved.
After that, every year on the 8th of December, there was a procession up to the main cathedral called the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Basilica of Fourvière) to light candles for Mary, while others did the same in their homes.
And in 1852, after a storm nearly cancelled the yearly celebrations, the skies cleared and Lyon residents lit flares and fireworks to illuminate the statue of the Virgin Mary on the hilltop outside the cathedral.
Following that, these celebrations morphed into what they are today: four days of lights and festivities around 8th December.
What can I expect to see?
Well here are the light installations from 2023 for all your twinkly needs.
Lots of what you can see are super intricate light projection shows, but you’ll also get sculpture installations too, which basically means you’re going to a huge outdoor modern art museum for free.
At the Parc de la Tête d’Or, there are often brand new sculptures – last year, you would have seen the Rose Family, a huge group of cute looking pink cartoony figures. The viewing was accompanied by a bespoke soundtrack by the Radio France Philharmonic Orchestra echoing in the background, adding to the grandeur of the festivities.
Where should I eat and drink?
Lyon is known as France’s capital of gastronomy, and this is exceptionally high praise coming from the world capital of gastronomy! But the title is given with good reason – Lyon’s historically meaty cuisine which focuses on nose-to-tail eating is banging. But if you aren’t a meat eater, or you’re not feeling a healthy dose of offal, there’s a pretty decent selection of different restaurants for various dietary requirements.
Top tip: steer clear of Vieux Lyon if you want a cheaper dinner – the UNESCO listed quarter of the city is gorgeous so visitors to the festival pile in here, but restauranteurs know this, and hike up the prices. The food is delicious here but there are also so many options around the city with smaller crowds.
In terms of drinks, if you’re on the move looking at the different light shows around the city, you’ll see lots of street vendors selling vin chaud, or mulled wine in English. It’s warming, tasty and typically well priced.
Or stop off at one of the small chain of bars unique to Lyon called Ninkasi where they have a range of their own beers they brew, plus signature spirits and soft drinks.
Image source:Andréas Brun / unsplash
Where should I stay?
The festival attracts millions of visitors every year so accommodation ain’t the cheapest at this time. It’s good to book as early as possible and have a think about not necessarily staying in the most central location. Public transport is pretty damn good in Lyon with trains, metro, trams and buses, and the festival typically finishes at 10PM or 11PM so you don’t have to worry about missing the last metro back if you stay a little further out.
That being said, there is another way to have your accommodation handled… Join our European Wanderer or London to Rome Wanderer trips departing on 3rd December, and you’ll be in Lyon on 7th December, with your hotel sorted so you can enjoy all the festival has to offer on the Saturday night! Oh, and with an expert Trip Manager who will give you all the reccos you could ever need.
