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A guide to scuba diving in New Zealand

Abel tasman, New Zealand Photo: George Strang

Love the ocean and all of its weird and wonderful creatures? Finished that half-marathon, and ready for the next time-consuming hobby to take over your life? Well, do I have the opportunity for you! Whether or not you’re a Kiwi or a visitor to this wonderful country, you are blessed with some of the world’s finest oceans in which to swim, explore, and dive beneath the surface.

Yes, I’m talking about scuba diving! Why not dabble in the world of extreme leisure activities? You don’t need a plane like skydiving, a horse, or a $10,000 bicycle, a spandex suit and clip-in shoes. Just a wetsuit, snorkel and flippers, and you can rent the rest! 

Why should I scuba dive in New Zealand?

A better question might be why shouldn’t you scuba dive in New Zealand? Hot, crisp summers it would be a crime to waste indoors.There are endless hidden gems to scout out and uncover, with more activities to do than time to do them in. You would truly be missing out by not coming here to enjoy what New Zealand has to offer, both in the water and out.

Clear blue oceans, copious marine life, shipwrecks, reefs, and kelp forests all await just offshore. Aotearoa boasts one of the best diving locations in the world named by famed oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. So come for a dive in one of the most unique marine environments in the world! 

camping in New Zealand

Image source:George Strang

More accessible than you think

I’m not saying that everyone can and should scuba dive. There are certain medical conditions that might prohibit you from strapping on a tank and jumping in, so be sure to do your research and get medical clearance if required. That being said, if you’re fit, able, and keen, there’s not a whole lot stopping you! 

Becoming a good scuba diver starts with getting the appropriate licensing, such as your PADI open water licence. There are dive centres all over the country where you can undertake all the necessary training to make sure you know how to dive, and do it safely. 

Legally, I don’t believe anyone can stop you from scuba diving without a licence. At the very least, the NZ police don’t have an undersea patrol unit I’m aware of. But no reputable operator will rent you gear or take you out without one. It’s not just about knowing how to use the equipment, it’s about acting safely and knowing all the necessary protocols and checks to keep you in control. I don’t know about you, but I’d rather be trained on how to deal with things if and when they go wrong underwater!

Training will typically involve theory, pool sessions, and supervised dives over the course of four days, and cost between $500-$700 NZD. 

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Safety matters

Not to be too morbid, but scuba diving is not without inherent risks. You are underwater in an unnatural environment to the human body, breathing from a tube connected to a tank on your back. It’s awkward and takes some adjusting to. You’re the marine equivalent of a hapless toddler compared to creatures like dolphins and seals. Incidents do happen. 

The good news is that a very, very small proportion of incidents come from interactions with wildlife. The bad news? Most incidents result from human error. Panic, and the results of rapid ascent are common causes, as are cardiac events among older divers. This really highlights the importance of proper training, knowing your limits, and not diving alone. Do this, and scuba diving can be one of the most incredible life experiences you can have!

Abel Tasman, New Zealand

Image source:George Strang

What you might see

Aotearoa is a veritable mecca for marine biodiversity, with a 2008 study on marine wildlife ranking New Zealand number one for its proportion of native species. We see half of the world’s dolphins and whales in our waters, in addition to over 1,400 species of fish and an astonishing 2,600 species of crustacean. Not to get too nerdy, but those are some impressive stats.

While out on your ocean expedition you might see: seals, fish (duh), orca, stingray, dolphins, penguins, eels, octopus, and yes… sharks. Remember that you’re in their world, stay relaxed, and make the most of a universe most people have never seen!

Wildlife aside, you can dive to the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior, a greenpeace boat infamously blown up in an attack sanctioned by the French government in response to protests of the French nuclear testing in the Pacific. The bombing resulted in one death and fortified the anti-nuclear stance held by many New Zealanders.

What kind of environment might you find? Forests of lush flowing kelp that teem with schools of fish, kaleidoscopic coral reefs with colours so vibrant they’ll make your eyes hurt, vast caves, drop offs and arches serve as a breathtaking backdrop to explore and admire the marine environment. Honestly, what are you waiting for? 

The best scuba locations in New Zealand

1. Poor Knights Island

This underwater wonderland is considered one of the top five diving spots in the world, let alone New Zealand! Lying in wait off the coast of Whangārei, Northland, this island chain is sure not to disappoint, with crystal clear waters and more sea life than your gopro could ever hope to capture. Live out your ocean adventures at one of Aotearoa’s most pristine offerings, with group tours and private charters available (if those pockets are feeling extra heavy).  

Poor Knights sits off the east coast just north of Whangārei. On your way up, stop in at Waipu cove and any of the nearby beaches for a taste of the isolated beauty of the Northland coastline. You can even squeeze in a quick camping trip at Uretiti for a real smorgasbord of Aotearoa’s outdoors! 

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2. Bay of Islands

Northland’s Bay of Islands are frequented by many Kiwis during the summer months, due to the pristine natural environment, incredible weather, and water so warm nobody will know if you pee in it. The common man might go for a swim, perhaps even snorkel or kayak. But you? You’re made of more adventurous stuff. It’s here, between the Cavalli Islands and the mainland, that you can find the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior. In addition to serving as an artificial reef creating and supporting abundant marine life, it serves an important role in Aotearoa’s history. 

That’s far from the only offering in the Bay of Islands however, so be sure to check out the many beautiful beaches, reefs, and remote Islands scattered about. An organised dive trip is by far the most simple way to get out there and make the most of your trip, so you can sit back, relax and enjoy!

3. Goat Island

New Zealand’s first Marine Reserve, Goat island is a welcoming refuge for animals of all shapes and sizes – and you I guess. Located a stone’s throw from Auckland on the east coast, just past the ever-popular Matakana and Leigh. Be sure to stop in and try the Matakana Farmers Market if you’re there over the weekend! 

You can opt to stay at an Airbnb, hotel, or campground in any of the interconnected towns dotted along the coastline, as Goat Island and the surrounding bay itself is rather small. If you’ve had enough of diving, hire a glass-bottomed kayak and gain a whole new perspective!

4. Coromandel

The Coromandel peninsula will leave you spoilt for choice when it comes to incredible diving locations, hence its massive popularity with divers. The Alderman Islands off the coast of Tairua are otherworldly, like some kind of oasis you’d find at the end of a pirate’s treasure map. Sapphire blue waters, jagged cliffs flanking sheltered coves, probably an old hermit lurking about somewhere with an eyepatch. I know I’m in! 

Believe it or not, this is but one of a plethora of dives on offer in this region. Some hug the coast, others are further out to sea. There is no shortage of marine life of all kinds, and if you’re really lucky you might get to see orca! The coromandel peninsula is an excellent choice to kick off your kiwi dive adventure, but has plenty to offer above the water too! Stick around and stay in towns like Hahei, Matarangi, or Tairua for the full experience. Cathedral Cove and Hot Water/New Chums beach all make for excellent side quests. 

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5. Taputeranga Marine Reserve

Located on Wellington’s south coast, Taputeranga Marine Reserve runs the length of multiple small bays and inlets. There’s a reason they all say you can’t beat Welly on a good day, and you are about to find out why. Further around the coast are Red Rocks and a known seal colony, so your chances of meeting some sea-dogs are pretty high! There is also the F69 wreck just offshore if that’s more up your alley.

Wellington south coast, New Zealand

Image source:George Strang

6. Milford Sound

It might not be your first thought for a diving expedition, but Milford Sound is packed full of unique undersea flora and fauna for your viewing pleasure. The deep, cold fjords contain a unique species of black coral trees that cascade down sheer underwater cliff faces. The fjords also serve as a home to the many sea creatures that populate Aotearoa’s coast, such as seals, dolphins, penguins, and sharks. Don’t let this get in the way, how many other idyllic fjords of the world do you think you’ll get the opportunity to scuba dive in? I’d take the chilly waters of Milford Sound over the piercing cold of the Norwegian seas (if they even let you dive in there), but maybe I’m biased.  

Tie in a trip down south with a more epic adventure! Soak in the sights and sounds of Queenstown and the surrounding areas in a rental car, bike, or on Contiki! Sweet as South will give you the opportunity to see the best of the central South Island with the freedom to go back to your favourites afterwards.

7. Other locations

Oceans aren’t the only good places to dive! Lakes such as Taupō and Rotomā in the central North Island are also excellent dive spots, with just as much life teeming beneath the surface. 

If you’re feeling truly mad, the Foveaux strait between Bluff and Stewart Island is a migration path for Great Whites, Mako, and other big sharks. You can opt to go cage diving there if your heart truly desires it. 

travellers in New Zealand

Image source:Contiki

Where to start?

If you’re looking for a general starting point, my first recommendation for visitors to this country would be to start further north. The water is warmer, there are more dive centres and options on where to go! It’s more accessible from bigger towns and cities, and the chances of getting a hot, sunny, summer day are generally higher. If you’re on your way south from there, you have the experience and the know how to take on more adventurous dives! 

As you can see, there are far worse places in the world to kick off your newfound hobby. As a scuba diver you are exploring earth’s last real frontier. All of the mountains anyone cares about have been climbed. The air has been conquered, and space is a rich person’s game (sorry). But the ocean can be yours! You could spend a lifetime exploring the rich wonderland beneath the waves, so take the plunge.

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